Golden Monkeys

It started as a rustle in the carpet of dried leaves, a distant whisper in Rwanda’s foothills barely audible above the squeaks of towering bamboo as woody neighbors rubbed against one another in an unsynchronized symphony. One of our guides paused, staring intently into the shadows, a smile forming on his lips as he announced in hushed tones the arrival of golden monkeys. All eyes shifted from our muddy track to the emerald darkness beyond, straining for a glimpse of these apparition-like visitors. I’d seen only shifting shadows when we’d encountered them previously and expected more of the same. But what was that orange?

A citrine gem seemed to flash between bowing stalks until finally a monkey burst into view, diving into a mound of leaves as if a child playing in the fall. The moment was brief. The animal retracted, huddling into a seated position several moments, intent on something in its hands, before it sprang once again into action. Its tail seemed to flick farewell as it darted into the bamboo maze.

As orange slipped away, darkness seemed to approach, a shadow took shape and a second golden monkey scampered toward our group. I had left the track, sneaking among stalks in pursuit of a photograph. I froze now, startled by the quick approach of this newcomer. It bound in my direction, paused to sample something plucked from the ground, then continued its approach.

Golden Monkey Portrait

It was fast, undeterred by my presence. I retreated a few paces, then stumbled back a few more as the animal picked up speed. I found my foot sinking into the mud of the trail just as the monkey leapt at the patch of ground where I’d stood moments before. It thrust its arm deep into the ground and yanked up a young bamboo shoot. I watched amazed. How had the monkey known this un-emerged shoot was there for the taking? Had it smelled its treat from a distance? And how easily the monkey had ripped this sturdy stalk from its parent plant. It had appeared as no effort at all, yet I knew better.

The monkey sat now before me, appearing as sweet and innocent as a child licking an ice cream cone as it savored its prize – an apparition no more.

Golden monkey eating a bamboo shoot in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.
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