07 Apr Finding Nature in Key West
My first visits to Key West as a young graduate student were doused in the costumes and Mardi Gras beads of Fantasy Fest. Crowds of boozed up revelers stumbled from one bar to the next along Duval Street, parting only long enough to admire elaborate body paint, or perhaps what was beneath. For many visitors, even in non-Fantasy Fest times, the bars and shops of Duval Street are the main attraction with the possible addition of a brief photo shoot at the Southernmost Point and a sunset stop to view the antics at Mallory Square. But Key West is one of those multi-layered gems that shines ever more brightly the further you stray from tourist-trampled sites. Surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, its nature is one of those things that gives it glow. Below I’ll share some of my favorite Key West nature stops and activities. (Hint: It includes a lot of birding, so you might want to consider getting a copy of my Birds of Florida book before you go.)
Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park –
Protecting what remains of a critical fort from the 1800s, this park is also famed for its white sand beach, offshore coral reefs, and as a birding hotspot during migration. While the moat and shoreline boast waterbirds at any time of year, the true excitement comes during migration when hammock and prairie along the hiking trails fill with migratory songbirds and even the parking lot comes alive with avian life.
The Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservancy –
While decidedly on the tourist track (it is on Duval Street after all…) with little educational emphasis and serious crowds, this is nonetheless a pleasant immersion into an artificial version of nature. Housed in a glass conservatory, the main feature is a lush tropical garden filled with plants, butterflies, and birds from around the world. Brilliant blue morphos brush past cheeks as pink flamingos lounge in pools at the base of bubbling waterfalls and painted quail scurry through the fern-filled understory. Its gift shop is rumored to be the best on the island with plenty of nature-themed knick-knacks.
Key West Gardens at Fort West Martello –
Tucked within the ruins of a civil war fort with views across the sea, the highlight here is the luscious tropical landscaping maintained by the Key West Garden Club. A winding path leads through a series of gardens featuring orchids, bromeliads, bonsai, specimen trees, and feature areas for butterflies and native plants, as well as waterfalls, gazebos, and scattered artwork. It’s a world apart from the chaos of the streets.
Transferred to its current high-ground location in 1847 after a devastating hurricane destroyed its beach-side predecessor, it holds an interesting array of monuments with entertaining epithets including above ground graves, mausoleums, angel headstones, and even a giant conch shell. It’s also a great place to view famed Key West chickens and during migration its tropical trees drip with migratory birds.
Located along the backside of the airport, this park protects an important swath of native habitat including tropical hammock (forest), mangroves, and salt ponds. A short boardwalk and hiking trail allows an intimate look at the habitats that once covered Key West, as well as opportunities to see a variety of wildlife.
Key West Wildlife Center at Indigenous Park –
Established to rescue and rehabilitate native wildlife, the center also maintains a nature trail filled with native plants and a freshwater pond within Indigenous Park. Always a lovely stroll with views of captive birds, it wild birds also flit through during migration.
Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden –
A combination of Caribbean forest and more formal gardens, this 15-acre garden on neighboring Stock Island is a true gem. Hosting a range of year-round resident animals, it explodes with neo-tropical species during bird migration.
Mangrove Paddles –
The best way to explore mangrove forest, the prevalent coastal habitat all along the Keys, is to get on a kayak or paddle board and immerse yourself. Several operators offer guided tours, as well as self-guided rentals with somewhat vague instructions as to how to enter the maze of tunnels that lead to Key West’s salt ponds. Whether you find your way to the ponds or not, paddling is a great way not only to experience the mangroves, but to see the range of sea life that depends on the shallows associated with this habitat.
Key West is the jumping off point for exploring Dry Tortugas National Park, 70-miles to the west. Accessible only by sea plane or fast ferry, this is truly a trek to the Caribbean. Famed for Fort Jefferson, the largest masonry fort in the western hemisphere where Samuel Mudd was held captive, it’s also known for its white sand beaches, coral reefs, nesting colonies of tropical birds that nest nowhere else within the continental United States, and as a serious birding destination during spring migration. Learn more about its history in my Dry Tortugas National Park book, and its natural history in my Wild Florida: An Animal Odyssey book.
Jacqueline E.
Posted at 19:17h, 07 AprilSo enjoy looking at your work and reading your commentary ….thank you!!!!
Kirsten Hines
Posted at 18:47h, 12 AprilThank you! I appreciate the feedback.
Scott Edwards
Posted at 11:55h, 12 Aprilfun day yesterday at the Golden Hour photo tour thanks! Heading to Key West next.
Best, Scott Edwards
Kirsten Hines
Posted at 18:47h, 12 AprilSo great having you there! Thanks for joining me.
I wish you many great photo opportunities in Key West!!!